OM size Nylon String Crossover

[Mark McLean]

That photo, and your description, explains it well. The great thing about that neck joint design is the ability to easily adjust the angle with shims. I have a Taylor Big Baby which is exactly like that (except uglier because the joint is held together by two Phillips head screws straight through the fingerboard at the 15th fret), and I made a Graham McDonald design bouzouki with a heel-less neck like that (but bolts through from the back because it has f-holes, so no internal access). Both have shims in the neck pocket (stacked playing cards can work!). This internal bolt version seems to be a great solution for a guitar. My son wants a crossover nylon-string so I can see this being a future build. Thanks for sharing yours.

[Alan]

Hello David
I have just found this post and read it with significant interest.
I’m currently refurbishing/modifying an old F10 Maton that had the soundboard stoved in requiring it to be replaced.
The plan is to use solid spruce top and fan bracing rather than a plywood top and an X brace originally used.
I found I was unable to get the checked in neck/ body joint apart and had to demolish the neck block by a combination of sawing and chiselling to separate the neck. This will mean making a new neck block. Like you I had thought a Fender style bolt on attachment might be possible.
As I want the final appearance to be as close to the original as possible, [/img][/img][/img]I’m not sure if I will be able to get my hand inside the soundhole which I think was 80mm in diameter as best I can determine from what’s left of the broken original.
Can you advise what size soundhole you used. I don’t have a large hand for a bloke but don’t want to build similar to what you’ve done and not be able to get the screws in especially as I won’t be using an elevated neck as you’ve done.
An advise would be appreciated.

[David Stiles]

Hi Alan, Thanks for your interest in my project. I made my sound hole 95mm dia which seems to be right for my bigger body.

I got out my old F10 and it's sound hole measures 85mm dia. I put my hand in and feel that the space is such that I would be able to get bolts done up in there. Swinging a small ring spanner in there would be easier than an Allen key. Bolts would be about 30mm long and space between head block and inside of back is about 50mm, so that works.

Another option is to bolt neck from top before fretboard is in place and then glue fretboard down with something that can be undone easily e.g. thin hide glue.

Good luck

[Alan]

Thanks your very helpful reply David. The 85mm measurement for the soundhole diameter is greatly appreciated as the soundboard on the F10 I’m working on was so smashed, getting an accurate measurement was difficult and I thought it was 80mm. 85mm gives me a tad more confidence that doing a bolt on like you’ve done is achievable and setting the action using a tapered shim is possible if needed initially or at some later stage.
I was also interested to see that your F10 has, what I assume, is a decal type rosette. It shows that Maton varied the appearance of the F10 through production - the one I have has just 3 black rings which I assume are either a slide on decal transfer or are, maybe stencil painted. I doubt,though I could be wrong, that they were inlayed in at the price point this guitar sold for.
Thanks again.

[David Stiles]

That's a mess, what happened to it? You mentioned plywood but that looks like solid spruce?

[David Stiles]

Some more pics of my build.

The tuners are Perfection Pegs. They work well once one gets used to them.
The bridge has 12 holes that go right through and 6 holes that go halfway, just to anchor string ends. I am going to call is a 15-Hole Bridge.

The Black Bean back looks really nice. Lots of the feature was not visible until the finish went on.

[Taffy Evans]

Hi, I agree with the solid top suggestion that the rosette is not inlaid. That screw in the top cross brace from an earlier repair looks a bit agricultural, but I have seen Maton braces repaired that way in the past.
Taff

[Alan]

Hello again David
I purchased the F10 like it is with the stoved in soundboard with a view to attempting to refurbish it and modify it if necessary but retain its original overall appearance.
I paid too much for it at $50 but it was for sale in Melbourne and I live in Canberra. I arranged for a good friend in Melbourne to pick it up for me - so I couldn’t negotiate a lower price. However, it was still not so much that I would be reluctant to attempt the refurbishment.
I think someone may have stood on it. The back, sides and neck are OK so the focus will be on the soundboard.
I’m not sure if the original soundboard was solid - Im away from home at the moment but will have another look when I return. Notwithstanding, I’ll use solid spruce for the new soundboard.

[David Stiles]

I have been really happy with this Falcate Crossover. I did however just notice some bracing print-through just behind the bridge. It's not much I can feel it when I run my finger tips across the surface. It shows up in the right but and very hard to show in a photo. Should I be worried about this?

[kiwigeo]

I have visible brace print through on a Gore style neoclassical I completes 2 years ago. Structurally the guitar is not compromised so Im treating it as part of the "character" of the guitar.....same as visible soft/hard grain lines on the top under a thin finish.

[Mark McLean]

Yep, some moulding of the top to the shape of the braces is commonly seen if you have made a reasonably light constructed top. Not necessarily a problem - but keep an eye on it. Most factory built guitars are relatively over-built in terms of soundboard thickness and bracing, so they don't show this too often, but that is often a deficiency rather than a virtue.