Acacia dread build thread
Re: Acacia dread build thread
I'll get Jeremy to have a look at this. Anybody else having problems?
Martin
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Allen,
Ive tweaked some settings so you should be able to upload pics now. Let me know if still having problems.
Ive tweaked some settings so you should be able to upload pics now. Let me know if still having problems.
Martin
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Ok, back in business, pics seem to be working again. I figured it was something up with the forum as I hadn’t changed anything different in the way I was posting, simply take a pic with my mobile and then upload!
Front and back blocks in clamps: Pencil lines to show when I’ve sanded for long enough on the radius dish: Route for the back strip. I don’t bother with jigs or anything here, just some double sided tape and a couple of bits of pine which I’ve run in the sander for a straight edge.
M I like the wedge shaped backstrip as I can tap it in with a hammer and there’s no need for clamps, it holds itself in place. Mahogany back lining in. I’m usimg mahogany for thebwck lining as I like the look, however I plan to make some thicker and taller maple lining for the top so it reduces the vibration down the sides, being it’s a Blackwood top I’m hoping this will help it come to life.
Front and back blocks in clamps: Pencil lines to show when I’ve sanded for long enough on the radius dish: Route for the back strip. I don’t bother with jigs or anything here, just some double sided tape and a couple of bits of pine which I’ve run in the sander for a straight edge.
M I like the wedge shaped backstrip as I can tap it in with a hammer and there’s no need for clamps, it holds itself in place. Mahogany back lining in. I’m usimg mahogany for thebwck lining as I like the look, however I plan to make some thicker and taller maple lining for the top so it reduces the vibration down the sides, being it’s a Blackwood top I’m hoping this will help it come to life.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
No pencil lines required for that mate....I just keep sanding until my arms are ready to drop off
Martin
- WJ Guitars
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Re: Acacia dread build thread
Looks liking your powering on with build. Great progress.
Wayne
https://wjguitars.wixsite.com/mysite-1
Wayne
https://wjguitars.wixsite.com/mysite-1
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Thanks. It’s just something in the background of my usual work, but since things are fairly quiet at the moment I’ve able to throw an hour or two at it each day.WJ Guitars wrote: ↑Wed Nov 14, 2018 4:42 pmLooks liking your powering on with build. Great progress.
Wayne
https://wjguitars.wixsite.com/mysite-1
I also recut the maple lining, I wasn’t happy with the size of the first lot. You can see the makeshift jig I use, simply a block of wood with a slot to move the block forwards and backwards, then aocatoe pin, the same as a feet slotting jig.
In this pic you can see the chunkier maple lining next to a standard size. It’s not heaps larger, but i think it should be chunkier enough and stiffer to make a difference.
Last edited by demonx on Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Hahahaha, try marking it next time, you might be able to rest your arms sooner!
One point to note, as long as the bulk of it is rubbed away, if there’s some persistent pencil marks, you can glue the lining a tad higher in those spots as it gets routed for the binding anyway and the pencil will show you where you can do this. Then use the same pencil method when the lining is in to get it perfect.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Starting to look like an actual instrument now as opposed to some random pieces of timber thrown together.
I was hoping to get the back cut in and glued today but it looks like it may be a job for another day. Unless I can squeeze it in late this arvo.
I was hoping to get the back cut in and glued today but it looks like it may be a job for another day. Unless I can squeeze it in late this arvo.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Box is closed.
You can see in this pic I’ve started off with the metal clamps, they’re faster/easier to work with, so by doing the front and back blocks first with those it helps me get the centerline in place first, then the other clamps to finish the job.
You can see in this pic I’ve started off with the metal clamps, they’re faster/easier to work with, so by doing the front and back blocks first with those it helps me get the centerline in place first, then the other clamps to finish the job.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Pretty sure everyone can work out what’s going on here. It’s the blues creek setup and a dewalt trimmer.
Won’t be gluing it in as my acrylic glue has ran out. Job for another day.
Won’t be gluing it in as my acrylic glue has ran out. Job for another day.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
You ran out of glue??!!! That's like running out of milk mate!!
Martin
Re: Acacia dread build thread
I’ve got heaps of glue varieties for various jobs, but this particular glue is one that I only use on acoustics and it dries up with storage, so I only buy one small tube at a time as per needed.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Haven’t touched this one for a few days, so today I got a start on the binding.
I prefer the stewmac ABS stuff. I’ve tried ABS from other venders and the stewmac stuff is the best I’ve used. I use weld on glue for this.
To work with I prefer to use timber. It’s quick and easy to bend and it glues up a breeze, ABS is more of a pain, it’s messier and fussier with glues, but if I’m doing a plain black I’ll use ABS as I believe it has better lastsbility. It has a bit of resilience to it, where timber binding chips just by looking at it, so my thinking is the ABS is better for the longevity of the guitar. Under a clear coat it looks the same as ebony anyway.
I prefer the stewmac ABS stuff. I’ve tried ABS from other venders and the stewmac stuff is the best I’ve used. I use weld on glue for this.
To work with I prefer to use timber. It’s quick and easy to bend and it glues up a breeze, ABS is more of a pain, it’s messier and fussier with glues, but if I’m doing a plain black I’ll use ABS as I believe it has better lastsbility. It has a bit of resilience to it, where timber binding chips just by looking at it, so my thinking is the ABS is better for the longevity of the guitar. Under a clear coat it looks the same as ebony anyway.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
“Binding Fingers” !!! Good thing it’s not highly toxic like epoxy!
As you can see in the blurry background both top and bottom strips are on.
As you can see in the blurry background both top and bottom strips are on.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Superglue is terrible for doing bindings, it’s adds so much extra work afterwards compared to the weld on. I won’t make that mistake again!
- 56nortondomy
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Re: Acacia dread build thread
I once glued my toes together with it, had thongs on and I knocked a bottle cap filled with CA of the bench and it splashed on my feet, I didn't realize at first not till I couldn't walk properly cause the toes were glued around the thong ( jandals for our kiwi members ) strap lol. Luckily I had some acetone handy.
Wayne
Wayne
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Now that is funny!56nortondomy wrote: ↑Sat Nov 24, 2018 12:16 amI once glued my toes together with it, had thongs on and I knocked a bottle cap filled with CA of the bench and it splashed on my feet, I didn't realize at first not till I couldn't walk properly cause the toes were glued around the thong ( jandals for our kiwi members ) strap lol. Luckily I had some acetone handy.
Wayne
Good thing I don’t wear thongs! There is however a dried up superglue puddle in my office carpet from a similar incident.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
I had a few spare minutes at the end of the work day so I routed the truss rod slot and stacked the heel.
For anyone interested in CNC. It takes me longer to do it this way then when I used to use a table router. It takes longer to set up and I do it in four passes, when I did it on the table router years ago I only did two passes.
For anyone interested in CNC. It takes me longer to do it this way then when I used to use a table router. It takes longer to set up and I do it in four passes, when I did it on the table router years ago I only did two passes.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Was wondering why you left the heel stack up until after doing the headstock and truss rod slot.....and the realized it was so you can do the slot using the CNC.
Martin
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Sure is. Makes mounting much easier.
Going back to the binding for a moment, I did something different to usual on this one and I’ve had a much better result.
Usually I route the binding so it’s perturding just a smidge, then I scrape the binding back to the wood. This time I did it the opposite way and took the wood back to the binding. It seems to be more work, but a better result.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
I guess you can do it that way but risks would be 1). tear out on the top 2) thinning the periphery of the lower bout will affect frequency of the main top monopole 3) if there are purflings then you dont want to take too much off the top of same.demonx wrote: ↑Sat Nov 24, 2018 4:31 pmGoing back to the binding for a moment, I did something different to usual on this one and I’ve had a much better result.
Usually I route the binding so it’s perturding just a smidge, then I scrape the binding back to the wood. This time I did it the opposite way and took the wood back to the binding. It seems to be more work, but a better result.
One advantage for dark coloured wood bindings would be lower risk of discoloring the top wood with dust and scraping being worked off the top of the binding.
Martin
- Mark McLean
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Re: Acacia dread build thread
There is nothing more satisfying than looking at a fresh-sanded rosette.
And I am stealing that idea for squaring up and spacing the back braces. Nice one.
And I am stealing that idea for squaring up and spacing the back braces. Nice one.
Re: Acacia dread build thread
Mark McLean wrote: ↑Sat Nov 24, 2018 8:35 pmThere is nothing more satisfying than looking at a fresh-sanded rosette.
And I am stealing that idea for squaring up and spacing the back braces. Nice one.
You’re welcome to it! It’s not something I’d seen anyone else do, so I came up with a solution myself. I was going to CNC a 3D drop in template and these were my mock up, and it was such a simple solution I just kept using them!
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