Wipe-on finish for acoustic guitar

[Richardl]

Hi All

I'm just about to finish my first guitar (its been a long process so far!!) and hoped to get some advice on finishes. I haven't got access to spray gear so was going to use a wipe-on finish of some sort. My fall-back position is to use Bulls-Eye shellac which I have used reasonably sucessfully on a few other items such as a couple of harps and jewelry boxes etc. I understand the down-side of this is it is quite easily marked so wondered if there was an alternative that IS AVAILABLE IN NZ (...that' the key bit as importing liquids is somewhat problematic). I have talked to a couple of local luthiers and they obtain their varnish overseas. I tried to find some U-beaut hard shellac but again, not available here.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Richard

[Kim]

Hey Richard, try contacting a few of your local gun/rifle clubs to see if they stock TruOil. It's popular as a finish on high end rifle stocks and also guitars.
Cheers
Kim

[Richardl]

Hi Kim

thanks for the suggestion. I have heard the TruOil name before. Is it an oil? I had thought oils were not usually used on acoustic instruments but maybe this is different stuff? Anyway, I'll see what I can find.

Cheers
Richard

[slowlearner]

Make your own tru-oil. Takes a little longer to dry but works just as well, easier, cheaper, etc. (thx Bill P)

1 part gloss estapol/polyurethane
1 part boiled linseed oil
1 part mineral turps

Shake well. Here's a how to...

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/sande ... sh-384222/

[Kim]

Its more a rubbing varnish Richard. Because of the name, some people freak out and assume it will penetrate into the wood...that's not my experiance, even with spruce. TruOil polymerizes quickly upon application resulting in it hardening 'on' the surface of wood rather than 'in'. This is why it can be built up to desired gloss levels. Have a search of this forum, there have been quite a few posts about it and even a few images.

[demonx]

I've never tried true oil, so I cannot comment on that, I have heard good things though.

When a customer orders an "oil" finish, I use Danish oil, which is a mix of oil and varnish but I buy it prem,ixed off the shelf and simply rub on with paper towel.

Here is two close up pics to show results on plain, boring Mahogany. It finishes up not quite glossy, but not entirely flat either:

[martintaylor]

I use Rustins Danish Oil on all my guitars. 6 coats wiped on with clean cotton cloth. I do a light rub back with 0000 grade steel wool in between coats. Then I finish with 2 coats of Carnuba/Beeswax hand polish.

[017]

Liberon Finishing Oil.

[kiwigeo]

French polish the bugger ya pussies!!!

[simso]

An easy finish, is a product called rub on poly as supplied by bunnings.

Rub it in, let it dry 6hrs, scuff with steel wool, and keep repeating until your happy, Ive seen some guitars that are a mirror finish via this method, about 20 -30 coats worth, but mirror finish

[kiwigeo]

An easy finish, is a product called rub on poly as supplied by bunnings.

I reckon if you asked for Rub on Poly the Bunnings staff would tell you "We don't have any staff here by that name".

[Mark McLean]

You will be able to get Tru-Oil in NZ. Look here:
http://www.outdoorsupplies.co.nz/Birchwood_TruOil.html

I have used both Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and also various brands of Danish Oil as a guitar finish. Both are really easy to apply as wipe-on finishes. They don't soak in, especially Tru-Oil. It builds on the surface like a lacquer. I like the softer feel of Danish Oil on necks, and used Tru-Oil on the bodies of 2 acoustic and 2 solid body electrics

Tru-Oil hardens a bit more, and faster, than Danish Oil, but both will get you to a good satin finish with 6-8 coats, which you can smooth over with OOOO steel wool, wax and buff. You can also use Tru-Oil to pore fill if you wet sand with it and wipe it off across the grain. It takes a few layers, and depends on the type of the wood and the depth of the pores. It will work OK over a shellac sealing coat, or over other pore fill treatments like egg white, epoxy or Timbermate. Or if you like the open pore look, just use it from scratch. It will come up like Allan's examples, which is really nice IMHO.

Some people have got to high gloss finishes by building up 20-30 coats of Tru-Oil and then leveling, sanding it out and buffing like a nitro finish.

If you google it you will find a number of online tutorials on Tru-Oil for either musical instruments or gun stocks. I think it is a good choice for people like me without the set-up for spraying, or the patience/technique for a really good french polish.
cheers
Mark

[demonx]

Both those pics I posted are grain filled with Timbermate. The headstock pic was filled with a darker rosewood colored mix than the second guitar, which was a rosey mahogany mix.

I've found that I don't quite like Danish oil any more than three coats, however after some trial and error there's a bit of a way I get there. Doing it this way it still feels like you're holding timber, but it has that seal.

First coat very thick, let it all soak in and keep wiping off the bleed until it stops

Few days later (when the oil looses its scent) scuff it all over with a 320 and the wipe over a very thin coat.
Few days later repeat the last step

Few days later scuff it all over with a fine scotch brite pad and buff with a furniture polish.

[colburge]

I would go the tru-oil route, it is easy to apply and dries fast too. I recently completed a big wooden trophy plaque for a Hockey Club in Qld Maple. It had 5 coats of tru-oil sanded in between coats and it came out unbelievable, really high gloss.


Cheers

Col

[Richardl]

Thanks everyone. I'll try to get some TruOil. I've used Danish oil quite a bit but it sounds like TruOil might build a gloss more easily and won't soak in quite as much. Seems like shellac isn't so popular!

I'm guessing that you apply TruOil with a folded cloth rubber as you would shellac or Danish oil.

Cheers
Richard

[H3ytm@n]

DSCF1105_sml.jpg (132.8 KiB) Viewed 41710 times

I tru-oil'd a uke a couple of years ago. 4 or 5 coats - I think - sanding between coats like Col. Turned out pretty well, although not as glossy as french polish. Easier though.

[Dennis Leahy]

Is Liberon Finishing Oil available in AU and NZ?

I have a quart, and plan to try it soon (so I can't give a roaring recommendation, yet, but the instruments I've seen finished with Liberon look excellent.) A number of luthiers like it better than TruOil.

Dennis

p.s. Oh wait, I did a bit of research, and found the company that says they are the "exclusive agents for Liberon in Australia": http://liberon.com.au/?act=products

Dennis

[jeff crisp]

Has anybody tried Feast Watson Buffing Oil? I put some on some cigar box necks a number of years back. Still look and feel nice but they have barely been played so l don't know how well they would hold up. About 6-8 coats from memory. Nice low sheen.

For a harder gloss finish l have also mixed 1 part Cabots CFP with 1 part turps/or kerosine for a wipe on application. Being a flooring product I know its quite durable. 12-16 coats.

[Richardl]

This looks like a reasonable buy. http://www.workshopinnovation.co.nz/pro ... 32&cat=120

1 litre should be enough!!

Cheers
Richard

[Kim]

Great buy!!! That will be enough to finnish a fist full of instruments. Just remember to buy a bag of marbles to go with your 1 ltr so you can drop one in the bottle now and then to bring the fluid level back up into the neck to expel excess air. If you don't then next time you go to use it you will discover just how well the stuff sets up in the presents of just a little oxygen

Cheers

Kim

[Richardl]

Hi Kim

well I'd never have thought of marbles! It sounds like a good idea and would have saved me throwing out numerous bottles of various finishes over the years. Thanks for the tip.

I'm not sure about a fist full of instruments...its taken months just to make one (although there was probably more time spent trying to understand how to make it than actually making it so a second one would be quicker).

Cheers
Richard

[kpcart]

has anyone got any photos of guitars finished in gloss/high gloss with tru-oil? i understand it is easy to get a satin sheen, but harder and much more coats and polishing too for gloss. quite interested in this product, funny how it was made for gun stocks

[hooked]

Here are 2 ukes I recently finished with 8 coats of Tru Oil.

[Jeremy D]

Here are 2 ukes I recently finished with 8 coats of Tru Oil.

They look great! Did you pore fill these? What was your process?

[hooked]

Jeremy,

Yes I gave them a coat of thinned (20% turps) Feast Watson Sander Sealer. I usually stop at eight coats of Tru Oil but I have a Uke that I'm now up to 11 coats and can confirm what others have said. It just gets better the more coats you apply. My method of applying Tru Oil is to apply it sparingly and wipe off as much as possible and don't play with it. I invert the bottle once onto a rag and that is enough for a back/soundboard. Might take a little more on a guitar. I also apply the sander sealer the same way. Wipe on, rub in wipe off. I have also used Timber Mate as a very good pore filler.

Cheers

Daryl