Video Demo - Buffing Lacquer

[Allen]

Finally had some time to edit the footage for this one today. It's how I buff all my instruments now. These little mini buffs are ideal for instruments. And very easy to get into areas like the waist.


youtu.be/

[Nick]

Thanks Allen, another very useful vid from the Guru McFarlen.
I'm not sure the Autoglim products are available across the ditch (I've not seen any, lets just say that!), is the one you use a one type does all? I usually use the Meguiars product but of course there are "grade steps" you use with that. I would be interested in a one single product type,I use the Stewmac buffing setup but still have to hand buff in those hard to reach areas.
The axe sure looks purdy too, is that the Terz?

[Allen]

Yes Nick, it's the Terz I've been working on. All strung up now so have to get some shots done.

That Autoglym03B is a medium cut. Their 02B is a finer cut and I use to have a bottle of it too, but dropped it about 6 months ago and the plastic shattered making a hell of a mess. The finish you see on all my instruments is done with the 03B and nothing else.

If I was to go out and replace this bottle I'd get the polish I'm using at work now. It's Mothers brand. They have a heavy cut, regular cut and glaze. I've found that either the heavy cut or regular cut works a treat on all clear coats, and a little goes a very long way. One bottle of it will last you a lifetime doing instruments.

And remember, a little polish on the pad is good. Too much is bad. It wastes product, and the buff just ends up pushing compound around, and doesn't get down and cut the surface, which is what you want.

[Nick]

That Autoglym03B is a medium cut. Their 02B is a finer cut and I use to have a bottle of it too, but dropped it about 6 months ago and the plastic shattered making a hell of a mess. The finish you see on all my instruments is done with the 03B and nothing else.

That's weird as I had a bottle of Meguiars #2 (fine cut) compound fall over in the quake & the contents are now spread nicely over the garage floor! (couldn't get into the garage for days to clean it up as we had no power) but I noticed that the top of that bottle had shattered too, I wonder if it's a brittle plastic they make them out of or whether the contents make it that way over time?

If I was to go out and replace this bottle I'd get the polish I'm using at work now. It's Mothers brand. They have a heavy cut, regular cut and glaze. I've found that either the heavy cut or regular cut works a treat on all clear coats, and a little goes a very long way. One bottle of it will last you a lifetime doing instruments.

I can get that here, I like Meguiars products but they can be expen$ive so will have to compare with the Mothers product.

Can wait for the Terz piccies

[Mark McLean]

Thanks Allen. In <4 minutes of video you have told me heaps that I wanted to know and got me over my anxiety about trying this sort of approach to a gloss finish.

cheers

Mark

[kiwigeo]

What happened to the hot pink shirt?

[Allen]

[DarwinStrings]

Thanks Allen, what is that pad made from or brand and type etc and about how many revs is that tool doing please.

Jim

[Allen]

The interface that goes with the buffer is one I got from Snap-On with the tool. The white foam pad is from Farecla. Come in a box of 5 or 6. Couldn't say for certain what the rpm is. It's reasonably low. Somewhere in the 400 - 600 range.

These things will create a lot of heat if you bear down on them and get the revs up. Dead easy to melt the lacquer and get a big smear or burn through. On the 2Pack clears we use at work when I'm buffing I can get a spot so hot you could fry an egg on it, so be careful.

[DarwinStrings]

Cheers Allen and I will be careful as I like my yolks runny. I thought it must have been one of those foam pads but wasn't sure. The idea of moving the tool around the guitar in my limited space is much better than moving the guitar around the tool as I do now.

Jim

[Allen]

These things work brilliant Jim and do a better job than anything I've seen. And believe me, I've buffer more square meters of paint than you could possibly imagine.

[voitty]

HI Allen just wondering if you wet sand with the 800 or dry sand thanks

[Allen]

When you get to the point of sanding for buffing all the sanding is usually done wet.

If the finish has been pore filled and prepped correctly right through the finishing process what you are left with is a smooth and flat finish that should only require the slightest of levelling, taking out any dust inclusions etc. It should go very quickly. If you like, after the P800 you can follow up with P1000 and then P1200 or P1500. They take bugger all off, but refine the scratches of the previous sanding process, and for some it may help get the gloss quicker depending on the method you use for buffing.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks Allen, another very useful vid from the Guru McFarlen.
I'm not sure the Autoglim products are available across the ditch (I've not seen any, lets just say that!), is the one you use a one type does all? I usually use the Meguiars product but of course there are "grade steps" you use with that. I would be interested in a one single product type,I use the Stewmac buffing setup but still have to hand buff in those hard to reach areas.
The axe sure looks purdy too, is that the Terz?

Nick,

Try here: http://www.ingear.co.nz/ShopProduct/Bro ... -Care.aspx