Bending Sides in a Fox Bender
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
Bending Sides in a Fox Bender
I was bending some sides today so I thought I'd take some photos and show everyone how I do it.
This is using a standard Fox style bender
Firstly I take the sides down to about .080" I'd rather be slightly over than under. This is a Tiger Myrtle side.
I'll wrap the side firstly in brown paper.
I mark the waist with a white pencil and make a vee shaped cut in bothe the brown paper and foil to line up the waist in the bender
Give the side a very light spray with water.
and wrap it in aluminium foil.
Get it lined up in the bender
Check the time.
Start the bend when the temperature gets to 100C.
I'll do the lower bout first followed by the upper bout and then crank the waist down.
I let the temperature get to 150C and then turn the blanket off.
From the time I turned the blanket on to completing the bend took 4 minutes.
Allow it to cool to room temperature and voila.
I don't like using too much water, just a light spray. I think too much water tends to cup the sides in some woods.
Everyone has their own method but this works for me and I don't vary it for different woods. This has worked for Padauk, Ziricote, Mahogany, all of which can be cantankerous . Myrtle bends like butter, maybe easier than EIR.
This is using a standard Fox style bender
Firstly I take the sides down to about .080" I'd rather be slightly over than under. This is a Tiger Myrtle side.
I'll wrap the side firstly in brown paper.
I mark the waist with a white pencil and make a vee shaped cut in bothe the brown paper and foil to line up the waist in the bender
Give the side a very light spray with water.
and wrap it in aluminium foil.
Get it lined up in the bender
Check the time.
Start the bend when the temperature gets to 100C.
I'll do the lower bout first followed by the upper bout and then crank the waist down.
I let the temperature get to 150C and then turn the blanket off.
From the time I turned the blanket on to completing the bend took 4 minutes.
Allow it to cool to room temperature and voila.
I don't like using too much water, just a light spray. I think too much water tends to cup the sides in some woods.
Everyone has their own method but this works for me and I don't vary it for different woods. This has worked for Padauk, Ziricote, Mahogany, all of which can be cantankerous . Myrtle bends like butter, maybe easier than EIR.
- Kim Strode
- Blackwood
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:11 am
- Location: Daylesford Victoria, Australia
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
The sandwich looks like this
___________________________
Stainless
___________________________
Heat Blanket
___________________________
Wood
___________________________
Stainless
___________________________
I tuck the thermometer between the top stainless slat and the blanket. Doesn't cause a problem.
___________________________
Stainless
___________________________
Heat Blanket
___________________________
Wood
___________________________
Stainless
___________________________
I tuck the thermometer between the top stainless slat and the blanket. Doesn't cause a problem.
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
- hilo_kawika
- Blackwood
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 am
- Location: Hilo, Hawaii
- Contact:
Bob,
I wonder if something else is happening to make the green color. The reason I ask is that simple salts of aluminum are colorless. When I bent koa wood, which has abundant amounts of organic acids, using brass sheet instead of aluminum, the sides were quite green. I'm sure this was because of the copper coming out of the brass. I've never had color issues with koa and aluminum...
aloha,
Dave Hurd
I wonder if something else is happening to make the green color. The reason I ask is that simple salts of aluminum are colorless. When I bent koa wood, which has abundant amounts of organic acids, using brass sheet instead of aluminum, the sides were quite green. I'm sure this was because of the copper coming out of the brass. I've never had color issues with koa and aluminum...
aloha,
Dave Hurd
How to become a millionaire? Start with $2 million and become a luthier...
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
I bend blackwood with paper and just a damp board. No soaking. Then al-foil wrap. I wouldn't say that I got a green tinge, but it did turn a slight greyish color. The first set that I bent I didn't wrap with paper, and those turned blue green. Don't know what the cause is, but if wrapping in paper cures it, than thats good enough for me.
- hilo_kawika
- Blackwood
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 am
- Location: Hilo, Hawaii
- Contact:
Bob,
One thing you might try is replacing the brown paper water source with paper "work cloth". I buy mine at the local stationary outlet (which has all sorts of office equipment, party supplies, etc.). It's blue, looks like heavy duty paper toweling and come pre-folded in a cardboard dispenser box.
I like to use the brown paper, which I bought in a large roll, as a covering for my work bench. Every week or two, after I notice appreciable grunge on the bench, I strip off the old paper and lay down a new sheet. It's great for off-hand calculations and of course provides a clean, smooth work surface.
aloha,
Dave Hurd
One thing you might try is replacing the brown paper water source with paper "work cloth". I buy mine at the local stationary outlet (which has all sorts of office equipment, party supplies, etc.). It's blue, looks like heavy duty paper toweling and come pre-folded in a cardboard dispenser box.
I like to use the brown paper, which I bought in a large roll, as a covering for my work bench. Every week or two, after I notice appreciable grunge on the bench, I strip off the old paper and lay down a new sheet. It's great for off-hand calculations and of course provides a clean, smooth work surface.
aloha,
Dave Hurd
How to become a millionaire? Start with $2 million and become a luthier...
Re: Bending Sides in a Fox Bender
I know this is an old post, but i have just set up a heat blanket for the 1st time and this post was useful. I'm bending blackwood, and covered the 1st side in paper before bending. Set blanket to 120 C, and it bent real easy, but slightly burnt inside the waist area. It'll sand out OK i'm sure. So for the 2nd side, i also used Al-foil in the wrap, and it came out with a green tinge. Does anyone know if the green tinge will sand out?
- Bob Connor
- Admin
- Posts: 3126
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Geelong, Australia
- Contact:
Re: Bending Sides in a Fox Bender
Blackwood doesn't play nicely with aluminium. Koa does the same.
It really depends on how deep the green tinge is on whether it'll sand out. In my experience it should sand out.
Over the years I've used less and less water while bending to the point where I now use no water. But that's due to using double sides with the inner being .040" and the outer .060". I bend them both at the same time.
Regards
It really depends on how deep the green tinge is on whether it'll sand out. In my experience it should sand out.
Over the years I've used less and less water while bending to the point where I now use no water. But that's due to using double sides with the inner being .040" and the outer .060". I bend them both at the same time.
Regards
Re: Bending Sides in a Fox Bender
Unless you have gone crazy with the water it should just be on the surface. If it's too deep, the oxalic acid will get it out.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest