Leveling dust specs and other imperfections

[Allen]

This technique is not new, and I've been using it for close to 40 years, but it's amazing how many people (even pro spray painters) are unaware of it.

The reason you want to do this instead of using a hard block and sand paper is that for one, a block will never cut the high spot down level without also taking material on either side of the dust or run. In high gloss finishes it's imediately evident.

The second reason is often a dust speck will have a very hard piece of junk in it. When you attempt to sand it out level often that piece will break free and roll with the sanding block and really deeply scratch the surface. Much like sanding with far too coarse of paper.


youtu.be/uLh7YrtxRLc

[kiwigeo]

Thanks a lot Allen.

[Mark McLean]

Nice demo Allen.

[Bob_H]

Thanks - its always valuable for a beginner like me to see what can help in taking results to a higher level.

[asgilbert]

Thanks for sharing Allen, these gems are so valuable to armatures like me.

[Pat.Hawkins]

Thanks Allen,
I love seeing your work in the gallery - it's amazing. It gives me (and others I'm sure) something to aspire to.

I'm a little confused here. I've read that finishes won't adhere well if you go beyond 240/320 grit?
Perhaps you've already applied a finish?

Do you apply any finish after those extra fine grits?
Cheers

[Allen]

It depends on what finish you are using as to what you can go with for sanding grit. Some requite no more than P400 for a good bond. Others can be up at P800 and still work out fine. Just depends on that particular finish. Many used in the automotive trade require P600 to P800 and nothing coarser or those scratches show through.

I use a catalysed polyurethane for all products sprayed. An Epoxy resin is used for pore filler.

This particular video is after I have used a sanding sealer on the instrument that was sanded up to P320 that was allowed to cure overnight and then level out with either P220 or P320. Don't recal now. If I plan on going with 2 spray sessions on clear coat then I can go with P220, if only one session of clear then definately I will go with P320 or even P400.

Ofter the sanding sealer has been level sanded the next day it had 4 thin coats of high gloss applied with a 10 minute flash off between coats.

Let cure overnight and then level sand with P400 and a final 3 coats of clear with 10 minutes between coats.

Let cure for 3 days and then it's onto the point that this video shows. De-nib, level out going through the grits and then buff. The finer you go the easier it is to buff out.

These days I tend to go up to P2000 or P3000 on larger areas that I can use my 3" random orbit sander.