Video of spraying lacquer

[Allen]

As per requested by several people, here is a demo of spraying lacquer on a parlour guitar. Hope it's a little help to those of you that struggle with this.


youtu.be/

[Clancy]

Thanks for that Allen. I was never sure if what I was doing was correct.
I know it seems dumb, especially after watching your vid, but I was never really sure what a single "coat" or "double coat" was.
Now I know and can see that I've been putting the coats on too slow, too many and therefore too thick.
Cheers mate!

[Kim]

WOW!! You don't mess about Al..lightning quick! What pressure are you running at the gun?

I have a small touch up gun which from memory runs at around 30 psi (could be wrong, would need to check to be sure as I have not used it much) It seems to suits my level of experience quite well because the lower volume of product it outputs means that I can work quite close and move 'much' slower than you so I can allow my inexperienced hand to pay attention to the overlap without getting too thick in application.

Must say that your level of experience clearly shows in this vid...'fluidly efficiency and completely professional' is how I would sum up your style..

Must also say that the combination of following the instructions you have kindly shared with us at the ANZLF, and the forgiveness of the little sill gun, has transformed the prospect of finishing a guitar with lacquer from one of intimidation to something I am much more confident of achieving success at, the 50/50 cut and 10% retarder is a golden recipe for instruments.

Thanks mate

Cheers

Kim

[Allen]

Thanks fellas. Glad it was of some help.

Spray pressure at the gun should be between 30 and 40 psi for lacquer. I don't really look at the gauge but judge by the spray pattern and the feel as it goes on. Too low and you won't get proper atomisation, and too high you'll blast all the solvents out of the finish before it reaches the surface. Leaves you with a dry, orangepeely finish.

At the end of the day, the way you spray, choice of solvent and the temp and humidity on the day all have a bearing on how you set up your gun / air pressure / technique.

[walcen]

Thanks so much Allen for a top instructional video.

May I ask why mirotone 3220 is your choice of lacquer?

And how would it compare with nitro for touch ups and repairs?

Just curious because I'm new to this spraying activity and products and stuff.

regards to all

Wal.

[Allen]

Don't know where you live Wal, but the choice of lacquers is limited in Australia. Mirotone just happens to be a very good lacquer for our purposes, made in Australia and has a good distribution network so it's fairly easy to get in most reasonably sized towns without the very high added expense of shipping hazardous/dangerous goods by road transport.

It's a pre-catalyzed nitro based lacquer. Has more solids in it than many other brands, thus requires more reduction than other brands to be suitable for spraying instruments. It's easy to spray and repair with proper technique and experience.

[walcen]

Thanks again Allen, yes Mirrotone is readily available here, that is good because I used a product called EXCELAC 100 because it was recommended, and as it was my first time spraying I excepted the advice. It's really good stuff but as far as I can tell it's only available at Sherwood paints, where as Mirrotone is available anywhere so I'll give it a try when I run out of the other.


http://www.sherwood-paints.com.au/Produ ... .php?id=12

kind regards

Wal

[Bob Connor]

Mirotone is great for repairs. It burns in quite easily and is totally unnoticeable if done correctly.

If you don't mind a satin finish the Mirotone 3220/30 (30% gloss) is very easy to apply and very forgiving. In fact you can do it in a couple of days.

Both Allen and I have been using it lately and it is a dream to use. A gloss finish will typically take me a month.

If you want to see what it looks like on a finished instrument just wander in to your local music shop and have a look at a Maton.

I don't know how durable it is though - it doesn't seem to last that well on Tommy Emmanuels Matons

The last I heard Maton were using an Italian product for their high gloss instruments.

[kiwigeo]

I don't know how durable it is though - it doesn't seem to last that well on Tommy Emmanuels Matons

I dont know what finish is going to resist the owner of the instrument attacking it with sandpaper!

[Allen]

I just finished spraying a 30% gloss finish on a Koa tenor uke. Looks absolutely fabulous. Much like a hand rubbed oil finish that just makes you want to pick it up and run your hands over the finish.

With the 30% gloss, it seems to work best if you don't use a lot of build. Less seems to be more. And you can get away with that because you aren't flattening it back or buffing. What comes off the gun is what you get.

[Pete Brown]

Allen, I may not spray the same product as you, but that in no way detracts from the usefulness of this video. I naively thought I was beginning to get the hang of spraying until I watched you in action. It's back to the drawing board for me!

Cheers
Pete

[Allen]

That's what the guys down in Albany said after watching me demo a few years ago at the Tafe. Maurie was much appreciative and sends me wood every now and then, which I'm really appreciative of. Using some of his Surian right now. Glad it was a help.

[Pete Brown]

That's what the guys down in Albany said after watching me demo a few years ago at the Tafe. Maurie was much appreciative and sends me wood every now and then, which I'm really appreciative of. Using some of his Surian right now. Glad it was a help.

Sounds like a not-so-subtle hint Allen. West Australian MDF be OK?

[Allen]

No hint implied Pete. Got more bloody wood that I can use in the rest of the days I've got to build.

[Pete Brown]

No hint implied Pete. Got more bloody wood that I can use in the rest of the days I've got to build.

Yep, unless my rate of production picks up, my half dozen sets should see me through. Anyhow, thanks for the great toot.

Cheers
Pete

[Phil Mailloux]

Hi Allen, nice video i'm curious as to why you thin the 3220 so much, i believe the recommended ratio is around 20-25%. At least, thats what i thin it to when i use full gloss 3220, i'll usually use 1294 medium thinner with it, never used retardant so far. My spraying schedule would be more like 6-8 coats a day with 30-40 minutes wait in between.

Is the reasoning behind this is that you want a very thin finish on the instrument when you're done?

[Allen]

Is the reasoning behind this is that you want a very thin finish on the instrument when you're done?

That's exactly it Phil.

Mirotone manufactures their lacquer with industry in mind. Get an acceptable amount of material on in as few as coats as possible, as time is money. If you were spraying kitchen cabinets you'd never be there spraying 8 coats of lacquer all day long, rubbing it back and putting on another batch. Thus their recommendations are for their largest customer base.

Flash off time it totally dependant on environmental conditions, but one thing is for certain. The solvents are going to come out of the finish sooner or later, and it's far better to let the majority of them out before the next layer goes on.

[Phil Mailloux]

Cool, thanks for the reply

[nnickusa]

Hey Allen,

Another quick question...Do you use a sealer before the finish coats? Some products I've seen recommend a vinyl sealer?

I'd guess the expoxy pore fill technique you use would eliminate the need on the back and sides, but what about the top?

Thanks

[Ormsby Guitars]

Just seen this video for the first time. Compared to my method, I also do close to 50/50 thinner/lacquer (maybe more like 60% lacquer), I dont use retarder at all, and I aim for just under 30psi of pressure (28 is good). I know the mic of a video cam isnt the best, but it sounds like too much pressure at the gun to me, especially with so much lacquer being blown off the work (it's just wasted otherwise). I also have a narrower fan, and apply the lacquer at about 75% of the speed of this video, with a parallel pattern to the surface (looks like you arched most of it).

But, as long as the gloss and build up is there, doesnt matter how you achieve it.

[Allen]

Hey Allen,

Another quick question...Do you use a sealer before the finish coats? Some products I've seen recommend a vinyl sealer?

I'd guess the expoxy pore fill technique you use would eliminate the need on the back and sides, but what about the top?

Thanks

No sealer on this instrument Nick. Never have found it necessary with Mirotone. Softwoods never get epoxy on them. I will give the top a quick coat of very thin shellac.

[Tod Gilding]

Is This You Al

[Allen]

Only wish.

[nnickusa]

Reckon I'd be using a hand-rubbed oil finish on that particular piece of work