Plate joining jig

[demonx]

I recently saw the LMI plate joining jig and thought it was a great idea, but limited in terms of the size material you could use.

I watched their video and didn't like how the plates had the opportunity to ripple and in the video the person said to make sure to push the plate down.

So rather than order their jig I decided to address these issues and build my own. Made it longer so I can join, well, longer pieces of timber, I also put in more x pieces so that if I wanted to join something short, then it's capable, where the LMI one is pretty much locked in its purpose.

I made both the top and bottom pieces the same so that the "plate" piece will ensure the joint will not pop up.

I didn't bother with fancy plastic clamps as it's just as fast or faster to tie it off at the end with a half shank, well, I tied them in a factory daily for over a decade so it comes naturally to me, faster than wrapping around a plastic clamp!

[demonx]

Step 2 : throw in a few screws

Step 3: tie the thing up and use the wedges to apply pressure on the rope

Very simple design and seems to work a treat.

The last pic is a dry join, I'll lay some paper down when I'm doing a glued join, but it appears to be one of those simple designs that does what you want with little thought.

[demonx]

Here is a pic of the original LMI jig for anyone who hasn't seen it

[luke_lee]

Nice, your cnc looks to be running well. What software do you use?
Also how do you hold the pieces in place on the final pass?

Luke.

[timbuck]

I've been using a similar jig to that one for years..It's a bit rougher and more basic with less bits than yours but it works great..The advantage is that this type can be used with uneven and odd shaped plate edges...All you really need is the sticks and wedges if you think about it Here is where I pinched it from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_WxBLTp3Pg

[demonx]

Nice, your cnc looks to be running well. What software do you use?
Also how do you hold the pieces in place on the final pass?

Luke.

Solidworks, CamWorks and Mach 3

I left tabs on the pieces and cut them with a bandsaw followed by a quick level on a belt sander

When I do it again ill redraw the model and let the pieces drop. I've also drilled holes in this one so the rope starts pulled from the hole rather than tied around the end. Means it requires one less figure 8. I'll also add a little bit more angle to the wedges next time and pre drill the pilot holes on the cnc so Rhe assembly can be faster and not have to manually measure. I'll also add hanging holes on the jig itself so it can be put on a wall when not in use.

The pic I attached is of a maple top, it's the first glue up I've attempted with this jig, I chose maple as its the most difficult timber I have here for showing glue lines, so it should be a good test timber to see if it's a good joint. I'll be looking at it later today.

[ozwood]

Looking Good Allan !

[kiwigeo]

I've been using a similar jig to that one for years..It's a bit rougher and more basic with less bits than yours but it works great..The advantage is that this type can be used with uneven and odd shaped plate edges...All you really need is the sticks and wedges if you think about it Here is where I pinched it from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_WxBLTp3Pg

A very solid looking jig....built like a British Sh*thouse

[demonx]

I've been thinking about this plate jig and looking at other variations as well looking for room to improve.

After testing this one, yes it did a good job, BUT, even though I've added two more cross pieces than the LMI one, it still isn't "right"

What I mean by that, to get a perfect joint EVERY time, the two end cross pieces would need to be exactly at the ends of the plates. My jig doesn't allow for this yet it allows for it more than the LMI one. In other words I believe the LMI one is most likely pretty crap and certainly not versatile unless you're using the exact same length every single time and the jig was assembled to match that length. For me, I need versatility.

Seeing the video that was posted above of the classical tops being joined in a primitive manner, each cross piece is separate, meaning they can be placed in a chosen position, not stuck in a set position. Now THIS would be way better than having the set position jig.

The maple joint I did was flawless down the center, however the last inch of each end was questionable. Good thing for me those spots will be cut away when the profile is shaped, so it's not wasted timber, however you wouldn't want to always leave that much extra on each piece of timber to allow for a crappy jig. Especially when the clamp jig I've been using for years is flawless, but it's a lot of stuffing around. - Piece of timber, one plate clamped, piece of tape down the center, three icy pole sticks under each end, second plate clamped down, icypole sticks removed and a center beam clamped for pressure. One day I'll measure the icy pole sticks and thickness some spacers! One day.

Long story short, I most likely won't be using it again and I'll be going back to the drawing board at some stage to make my old system less fiddly but achieve the same results.

[simso]

I actually have the lmi jig, hasnt let me down yet. What part of the joining is not working for you

Steve

[demonx]

I actually have the lmi jig, hasnt let me down yet. What part of the joining is not working for you

Steve

It worked fine, I just don't think its the best system. Certainly not the most versatile.