Saddle issue.
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- Beefwood
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2021 4:49 pm
Saddle issue.
Good evening all. Not sure if image has uploaded correctly but need some advice please. I am fixing up an old classical guitar that someone else had worked on and glued the saddle in. At present the string takes off from the back of the saddle leaving a gap under the front which could cause buzzing. The action is a bit high and intonation is on flat side. Is my thinking correct if I file the saddle so it slopes back the the string should take off from the front and sharpen it and also slightly lower it to help with action. Your thoughts please. It would be very messy to try and remove saddle.
Re: Saddle issue.
If it was me I'd get the saddle out and get a fresh saddle blank in. If the thing is glued in then it can be routed out. You'll need a suitable jig to guide the router such as the Stewmac saddle routing jig. There are home made alternatives to the latter.
A string breaking over the back of a saddle won't necessarily buzz. Is there actually any buzz happening? If the string is breaking cleanly over the top of the saddle then it shouldn't buzz. Are any of the strings cutting ruts in the top of the saddle..this can sometimes cause buzzing.
If you follow what you have indicated in the drawing you will sharpen the intonation and at the same time drop the action. Change in action at 12th fret will be twice the change on change in height of top of saddle. I'm assuming that the tie block is to the left in the drawings? Ideally nut and saddle action (and neck relief if applicable) should be set up first before tackling intonation
The question has to be asked...why the heck would you glue a saddle in?
A string breaking over the back of a saddle won't necessarily buzz. Is there actually any buzz happening? If the string is breaking cleanly over the top of the saddle then it shouldn't buzz. Are any of the strings cutting ruts in the top of the saddle..this can sometimes cause buzzing.
If you follow what you have indicated in the drawing you will sharpen the intonation and at the same time drop the action. Change in action at 12th fret will be twice the change on change in height of top of saddle. I'm assuming that the tie block is to the left in the drawings? Ideally nut and saddle action (and neck relief if applicable) should be set up first before tackling intonation
The question has to be asked...why the heck would you glue a saddle in?
Martin
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- Beefwood
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2021 4:49 pm
Re: Saddle issue.
Thanks Martin. There have been developments. I have the saddle out. It was a through slot and with gentle tapping it came out. What I thought was glue at top of slot was lacquer I think. It was v tight but no damage. I think I will slope this one back and see what happens. If no good then I can make a new one . I dont have much to play with above 6th fret but not buzzing. Its just the action is a bit high and the gap under the front of the saddle worries me. I am mostly a v limited chord player with soft touch but when strummed more aggressively it growls which is the only way I can explain it. I wish I had the skills to do as you said with the router. I only have a dremmel look alike which I use for splines on broken necks. They dont have to be as accurate as bridge slots and I cant afford router and jigs. Anyway thanks again for your input . Byw guitar is an IRIS G60. Entry level.
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