Australian Wood review Issue 64 - Perfect resawing.

[Deano]

Just flicked through the latest Australian Wood review mag that was delivered. Noticed a Tutorial on perfect re sawing "jigs that will make your budget bandsaw accurately resaw long boards" By Darren Oats.

Haven't had a chance to read it, was delivered with a hole in the bag and now is drying from todays rain. It's more of a sponge then a magazine.

Might be worth a read for some..

Dean

[Cam]

thanks for the heads up. I'll have to go and see if the newsagent has that magazine in stock

[vandenboom]

Thanks Deano - I'll follow that up. I am a real klutz when it comes to knowing my bandsaw. I bought a $500 Hare & Forbes unit a couple of years ago and have only ever used it for free sawing. The few times I tried ripping against a fence and the cut ran off line, I thought it was because I had a cheap unit. I only discovered a couple of weeks ago that rip fences are rarely set up at 90 degrees and that you have to setup your rip fence to suit your blade for the "drift angle". Pretty stupid really but simply illustrates the isolation of this learner in his first couple of years from others who were in the know. I'm sure there are plenty of other things I am doing the wrong way in ignorance!!
Frank

[J.F. Custom]

Hi all,

Haven't read the article yet so it may be covered anyway but...

The nature of bandsaw blades is flexible. The guide system is there to limit the amount this occurs but as soon as you start a cut, the blade will twist very slightly meaning if you have your fence set to 90Ëš, you will track off course.

You can adjust this in the manner Frank suggests by re-aligning your fence to suit the 'drift' which will work, however this is in itself a problematic solution. Different blades at different tension settings on your saw can mean different tracking and therefore require you to re-set the fence each time.

Better option is to attach a curved face to your existing fence. You can buy these - Kreg make one as do others but the principle is simple and not hard to emulate. You want the widest point of the arc to be aligned to the cutting edge of the blade. If you can make it run on sliders and be adjustable - even better. You then set your width of cut as you would normally but off the face of the curve instead. When you start your cut, you will now find the you have allowance to adjust the feed of your timber to match the drift or track of the blade - regardless of which way or how much it is. This allows you to re-saw accurately.

Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Jeremy.

[Stu]

Pivot post method.


youtu.be/


cheers, Stu