Gidgee is certainly on the harder end of bending scales as far as species go. Due diligence is required!
It can depend on the depth of the curl and the grain deviation for sure. I've done highly ringed Gidgee into ukulele radii before, so it is possible. It was a nice tight, even figure so the fibre length and grain deviation was not too bad. You can practically end up with end grain if it is very deep and the piece will want to fall apart. To some extent, the same can be said with many figured timbers though, such as figured Blackwood - hence why they are always considered trickier to bend.
Jeremy.
Bending wood alternatives...
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Re: Bending wood alternatives...
Here are a couple of photos of the first and the second pore filling with epoxy. The first one had way too much epoxy .The squeegee was a bit too soft but with the second one I used my mastercard with only a teaspoonful of epoxy. I still have to sand and perhaps fill once again before spraying nitro to get my wanted reddish-brown burst...
First try before and after first half of sanding :
Second attempt:
First try before and after first half of sanding :
Second attempt:
Thanks!
Hardy
Hardy
Re: Bending wood alternatives...
Now this second acoustic build is almost completed.(12-string baritone)
I took off the white plastic bindings from the neck and glued on thin stripes of muninga wood I still had on the shelf.
With nitro lacquer they now show their nice flaming.
I sprayed the spruce top this time only with clear finish because I wanted to have a pure and simple design.
Furthermore any scratches or dings would be easier to repair than with burst tops.
I still have to do the fret-work, have an ear and eye for the compensation of the bone saddle.
As there will be a zero fret I only have to do the spacing of the 12 strings at the nut. These works will take some time...
And last but not least I´m eager to put stings on and see how it sounds...
...or if the strings will tear the top off when turning those twelve tuners -
One more thing:
How can I prevent that the finish -especially on the back + sides - keeps gathering dust?
3rd photo below (besides cleaning the room with vacuum cleaner... )
I took off the white plastic bindings from the neck and glued on thin stripes of muninga wood I still had on the shelf.
With nitro lacquer they now show their nice flaming.
I sprayed the spruce top this time only with clear finish because I wanted to have a pure and simple design.
Furthermore any scratches or dings would be easier to repair than with burst tops.
I still have to do the fret-work, have an ear and eye for the compensation of the bone saddle.
As there will be a zero fret I only have to do the spacing of the 12 strings at the nut. These works will take some time...
And last but not least I´m eager to put stings on and see how it sounds...
...or if the strings will tear the top off when turning those twelve tuners -
One more thing:
How can I prevent that the finish -especially on the back + sides - keeps gathering dust?
3rd photo below (besides cleaning the room with vacuum cleaner... )
Thanks!
Hardy
Hardy
Re: Bending wood alternatives...
If your workshop has a dust problem then Id suggest doing your epoxy pore filling and finishing n a less dusty atmosphere.....maybe somewhere inside your house. If its just a small amount of dust sticking to the epoxy it can be sanded off once the epoxy has set.viento wrote:
One more thing:
How can I prevent that the finish -especially on the back + sides - keeps gathering dust?
3rd photo below (besides cleaning the room with vacuum cleaner... )
I used to use a credit card to spread on my epoxy but Ive now switched to a high quality 5" wide rubber bladed window squeegee....I find this gives a nice even coat of epoxy and getting a coat on is much quicker than with the credit card. I get my squeegees here: http://www.squeegeesonline.com.au/index.php
The guitar is looking good....nice work.
Martin
Re: Bending wood alternatives...
Martin thanks for your friendly reply!
I think I formulated my dusty problem not right:
it´s no dust particles in the epoxy but after nitro lacquer finishing the guitar keeps gathering a bit of dust on the outside layer. I guess it might be the same "electric" thing with a comb rubbed on a sheet of cloth attracting little pieces of paper etc.
I think I formulated my dusty problem not right:
it´s no dust particles in the epoxy but after nitro lacquer finishing the guitar keeps gathering a bit of dust on the outside layer. I guess it might be the same "electric" thing with a comb rubbed on a sheet of cloth attracting little pieces of paper etc.
Thanks!
Hardy
Hardy
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