New Devilbliss GTI and Stan S-2 guns (Setting advice needed)

[Aexion]

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"Originally Posted on: Fri Sep 24, 2010 4:08 pm"



Hey guys, today i got a few handme downs from the old man, a DeVilbiss GTI P1-9 Bar and a smaller Stan S-2. Hes a good bloke my old man Cool

Only thing is i dont have any setting data sheets to go off. The DeVilbiss has a No 110 tip and the stan has a no 8 tip.

After reading up a little i found that a JGA with #30 cap is best for lacquer as it is not meant for such fine droplets.

Long story short i have these two guns but have no idea how to set them up for spraying lacquer.

So i thought why not ask the axe builders at ANZLF, Here are the guns


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The DeVilbiss
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The Stan S-2
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"Strive not to succeed, but to be of value" - Albert Einstein

Tim Mason

[Allen]

Tim, the upper knob on both guns (actually all guns that I've ever come across) is the spreader valve. It allows more or less air the the holes in the horn of the air cap.

Full on and there is lots of air being directed to the air cap horns and make the spray pattern wider. Full closed and no air comes out of the air cap horns and you get a narrow round pattern.

The lower knob is your fluid adjustment. Pull the trigger fully on and turn the knob in until you feel the trigger being pushed out. It needs to be at least there. You can further adjust it to allow less trigger, and less fluid, but that depends on the size of the fluid tip, the viscosity of your paint / finish. The temperature, humidity etc. That's why it take bloody years and years to get good at spray painting.

Now the rest is just practice.

I recommend you have a look at my spraying tutorial in the "Tutorial Section.
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Allen R. McFarlen

[Puff]

The great thing about spray guns is that you can practice technique and use different tips/nozzles and see what's happening to your heart's content with water on newsprint or any old scrap but beyond that there are myriad adjustments for exactly what you are spraying - with and at and in.
I reckon if you tell Alan exactly what brew you intend to spray he will advise you well as to mixes, volumes, pressures and distances but without that its a bit like "how long do I cook a steak in the microwave."

[Nick]

The DeVilbiss is an excellent gun & if kept clean, should give you lots of trouble free spraying pleasure Smile The smaller, is actually called a Star which are considerd to be good mid range (& reasonable price) guns http://www.airless.com.au/Star%20Spray%20Guns.htm & that one is classified as a 'Mini spray' gun. These smaller guns (sometimes refered to as door jamb guns) are great for smaller spray patterns such as sunbursting & do struggle a little on larger areas. Read Allen's tutorial as he is the guru and just get some lacquer paint & play essentially! Play around twiddling the different knobs and see what does what then mess around with thinning ratios (although 1:1 is a good starting point), and find an old sheet of MDF of Gib to spray on.
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A handmade Guitar for $300 ? Phftt. Sure, give me a chunk of wood, a hammer & some 6 inch nails & I'll see what I can knock up for ya.

Nick Oliver
www.oliver-guitars.com

[Aexion]

Quote:
The smaller, is actually called a Star which are considerd to be good mid range (& reasonable price)

That explains why i couldnt find any info on them:?

I have sprayed a few cars of mine over the years, but i agree, ill need alot of practise to get things perfect.

Im using mirotone a mixture of 50 lacguer, 40 regular thinner and 10 ultra slow (recomended by allen). But first i have some feast watson sanding sealer to apply with the gun.

Ill check out the tutorial, thanks guys.
_________________
"Strive not to succeed, but to be of value" - Albert Einstein

Tim Mason

[Aexion]

That tutorial is great allen! I may spend a week doing practice runs on a bonnet with water after reading Cool
_________________
"Strive not to succeed, but to be of value" - Albert Einstein

Tim Mason

[Allen]

Water isn't the same viscosity as paint, but it gets you into a pattern that will develop muscle memory on what it's like to trigger on and tripper off while still keeping a fluid motion with arm/wrist/body. The beauty of using just water is that it doesn't cost much unless you use that fancy bottle stuff, and you can't make a mistake.
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Allen R. McFarlen

[Aexion]

Yeah, i figure it cant hurt anyway Wink ill give it half an hour a day and then try the real stuff in a week or so. Twisted Evil
_________________
"Strive not to succeed, but to be of value" - Albert Einstein

Tim Mason

[Localele]

Allen wrote:
Water isn't the same viscosity as paint.

It's also bloody hard to get any build with water but at least it settles out and the "orange peel " goes away quick.
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Cheers from Micheal.

Remember the "5P Rule".
PREPARATION PREVENTS PISS POOR PERFORMANCE.

[liam_fnq]

Micheal spent most of his practicing time spraying beer, the hard part was cocking his wrist far enough to spray it into his own mouth Laughing
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Cheers, Liam.

[Allen]

That's were the HVLP (high volume low pressure) really comes into play.
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Allen R. McFarlen

[Localele]

While you are practicing spraying don't forget to actually practice cutting back the surface and then spraying it again as you would an instrument.Try the french polish "rubber" method for manipulating the lacquer as well. It can give surprising results with hungry pores and much better to practice away from instruments.
As for the water tests I find it helpful to rub them back dry and then respray with filtered water.
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Cheers from Micheal.

Remember the "5P Rule".
PREPARATION PREVENTS PISS POOR PERFORMANCE.

[Aexion]

Ill check out the "rubber" method, but Filtered water, really? Cool
_________________
"Strive not to succeed, but to be of value" - Albert Einstein

Tim Mason

[Ronald_Handmade]

Aexion wrote:
Ill check out the "rubber" method, but Filtered water, really? Cool

Don't use pure filtered water. You need to thin it out about 10-20% with distilled water to get the consistency right...
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Ian.

My wife will hate this hobby, but at least it'll stop me restoring & registering my motorbike!


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