Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Keep the relief low (4 thousandsths of an inch ) IMHO there is nothing to be gained by increasing relief
Probably 14 to 64 strings.

I would not use it for a neck, too soft, not stiff enough.

Besides the tuning to the note or off the note issue, Trevors method does NOT tune components separately unlike Siminoff. The Gore method involves testing the properties of the materials then modelling to determine desirable thicknesses and then testing the completed and strung up instrument and adj...

Normally I would just do the heel, but I want to do a 12 fret joint and still allow easy access for him with lap style playing with thumb under (hand injury)
Thanks for the ideas Guys

Anyone got a good design for this?
I don't care for the Fender type neck plate looking for something more subtle
I'm building for my brother in law who plays lap style but not slide, with his index finger on top and thumb under the neck.

Yep, whenever you exchange air through ventilation, leaks, door opening, in a humid environment, You have to pull moisture out of the air you have introduced.

Having a small, sealed, dehumidified room for assembly and pre assembly storage is a must IMHO.
All the other things like insulation, ventilation and Air con will make the place more comfortable for you but not necessarily reduce the Relative humidity to accepted levels.

Or cover it with an apple sticker and claim it belonged to Daniel Johns of Silverchair (I worked on about 50 of his guitars and that was a common adornment)

But seriously, some sort of decorative inlay could look good rather than trying to disguise it.

You would end up with a lot of endgrain presented as a glue surface to the soundboard and back. Does not seem like a good idea.

I use 2mm side dot material to pin the bridge for clamping. You can install these to the soundboard with CA protuding 2-3mm with the upper end tapered slightly, These will not leak with vacuum clamping.

Bear in mind that usage on traditional Japanese and Chinese instuments would be using a talipiece not a glued bridge and that does make a difference.

Most builders avoid any products with silicones in the workshop due to the finishing and refinishing problems they can create

I used wood instead of Masonite for mine, and made a few mods to the original design like an adjustable truss rod, a shorter neck pocket and master vol and tone instead of concentric pots. But I used original style lipsicks and original (but steel not aluminium) bridge. I don't think of it in terms ...

I built a DC dano copy, no idea on the U2
Recommend NOT using Neptone pickups.

The 5mm width on your saddle is unnecessary. If you go to 3mm you won't end up so close to the holes

I drill the locating holes through the board into the neck then use plastic rod as pins only projecting 3mm from the face of the neck.
Then I can fret the whole board and just leave the pins in place.
Or I fret after gluing the board on, depends.

Tapering down to 2mm at a butt joint between braces is essentially unconnected as far as any bending strength. What you are trying to avoid here is something like a full height butt joint which if it were to crack apart could buzz, Some older Martins connected finger braces and bridge plate to the X...

I had my copies of Trevors books stored away. I have pulled them out now. I'll note that the second paragraph of 4.7.3.1 indicates that the use of published values for the modus of steel are fine for steel strings, and only recommends the jig for use on Nylon or the like Classical strings I would su...

Are you trying to determine E from you test results? I don't see how?
It should be a constant around 190GPa as it is just a material property
Do you have a jig with pulley and weight to supply tension? The contant tension provided will not give meaningful compensation results Pictures?

Without getting too far into it and having to go back and check terminology etc, I suspect that your problem is that you have used the measured overall string diameter. For string longitudinal stiffness calculations, you need to use the measured core diameter excluding the wrap. The wrap contributes...

Fibre sheet would probably be quite damping too

It's a bit of a Straw man exercise
Put up a proposal that does not really represent anyones position then attempt to disprove it
I'll say worthless is being generous

Seems deeply flawed to me. To the extent of being worthless It puts up this hypothesis that percieved quality will be correlated with -the lower body frequencies being certain values (though not specified what is desirable) -the ratio of those frequencies not being 2.00 And then throws in a vast mix...

I have not made any for a while but definitely prefer the string through bridges for two reasons. - less stress on the glue joint than a tie bridge -better break angle I had to convert one factory uke to string through when lowering the saddle to get acceptable action left the strings sliding around...

There should be, but often there is not.
I repaired a 70's grand Bouche can't remember the brand which was severely distorted around the soundhole resulting in very high action.