Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I had one more go and sratched out old filler and played around with varnish and stain and built up with layers of varnish. Although nowhere near a pro job it looks much better under the varnish and to me reflects the battered and interesting life it has led. It had a name engraved on the neck and I...

Thanks Martin. It def has the word instruments in the name. The Indian link looks like a retailer. I have not seen a guitar 'MADE IN IINDIA' yet. Although if they can make sitars then guitars should not be too hard. India has some amazing craftsmen who can make just about anything.

Sorry. Name on headstock is g & r instruments.

[img] [/img Thanks for your words of encouragement Richard. You are right. The sound is the important thing. I have been hung up on this guitar for a couple of weeks now and going nowhere. I have 22 more in the shed awaiting attention so time to bite the bullet and get fixing.

I have an electric accoustic guitar with G & R Instruments on headstock. No label inside. Any info on the maker would be welcome.

Can anyone give me info on this maker please. I have an electric accoustic guitar from them.

Thanks for your replies. So it seems unless I start from bare wood or stained wood I've got no chance of getting a reasonable result. I cant get rid of the filler so have bought closest artists acrylic paint and used that. Waiting for it to dry now. This is one of the reasons I don't do repairs for ...

[img][img /img] Where do I go from here. I patched the hole up and think it looks worse than with hole (trigger). I used Multifill filler then tried a few Feast Watson stains. Last effort was with Copic textas. I dont want to strip whole top and restain. May still not take to the filler. Am now thin...

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All finished and ready to go to a good home. Had not seen an Onyx before but looks like Ovation copy. Fixed all the crackling with cotton buds and Kleanium contact Kleen. Bridge is glued and not pretty but solid. Thanks everyone for your help.

Mark McLean wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 27, 2022 5:59 am

Great tip! I have a few old stethoscopes in a drawer and have sometimes used them to track down problems around the house (but, so far, not in guitars). The dowel trick sounds really clever. I presume you place it against the mastoid bone, just behind the ear?

Yes works for me.

kiwigeo wrote: ↑

Tue May 17, 2022 7:44 pm

David Herring wrote: ↑

Tue May 17, 2022 12:03 pm

How do you pick a nitro finish. With my limited skills they all just look 'shiny'?

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier ... etest.html

Nice link Martin. Thnks

pkdz wrote: ↑

Tue May 17, 2022 1:35 pm

David
I would try a very tiny bit of acetone under a tuner.

Paul

Thanks Paul.

Thanks Martin. There have been developments. I have the saddle out. It was a through slot and with gentle tapping it came out. What I thought was glue at top of slot was lacquer I think. It was v tight but no damage. I think I will slope this one back and see what happens. If no good then I can make...

Good evening all. Not sure if image has uploaded correctly but need some advice please. I am fixing up an old classical guitar that someone else had worked on and glued the saddle in. At present the string takes off from the back of the saddle leaving a gap under the front which could cause buzzing...

I would be tempted to use medium CA glue. This is from another forum to glue a bridge on a Formica top: use just enough CA to cover the bottom of the bridge so there will be minimal squeeze out. glue it like you would with regular clamps and wood glue making sure to clean off any squeez out with pa...

Thank you all for your suggestions. I went with the epoxy before the ca suggestions came through. What a job even after masking. Anyway all done and restrung now. The electronics looked cactus and I had removed the piezo and made a new saddle to just have the guitar as accoustic. However after fiddl...

Thanks Kiwigeo. What do you suggest?

Thats what I was thinking Wayne although others dont favour epoxy on bridges in case they have to come off again. Not sure if titebond will stick to plastic.

I am currently restoring an old Onyx electric accoustic guitar. It has a fibreglass body ( like the old Ovations) and A wood plastic laminated top. The wooden bridge has popped off easily and I'm not sure what is best glue to use to replace it. The top has quite a dip at front and hump at back. Top ...

I had a clicking when tuning g string. I assumed it was a nut problem and fiddled around but couldnt resolve it. Then I remembered old trick Dad taught me when working on engines. The old 'stick in the ear' trick. A 30cm piece of 13mm dowel put on the nut and held against bone at ear (not in ear) so...

I'm still alive. Please dont delete me.

Thanks Steve. I have some matt black auto spray. Was thinking about trying to use paintbrush but wasnt optimistic. Will try spray but some serious masking to be done. Thnks and rgds Davimkd

Thanks for reply Steve. The guitar is a manufacturers guitar. My hobby is doing up broken or battered guitars and giving them away to people who show an interest in music. I buy some cheepies from gumtree and now people give me their castoffs. This guitar had 5 of the six bracings broken or lifting ...

After putting back on I'm left with a mess. Edge was painted not binding but could someone suggest filler and best paint to clean it up a bit. Could use black leather stain but not sure it would take to filler. This is an entry level guitar and I am an entry level fixer upper.